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解惑“伽罗太华翻白眼流口水流眼泪”-译文小记

(新春见闻)伽罗太华翻白眼流口水流眼泪浙江宁波年糕:“年年高”里含藏“甬港情”

来源: 中国新闻周刊
2025-01-31 04:08:49

最佳回答

“伽罗太华翻白眼流口水流眼泪”(新春见闻)伽罗太华翻白眼流口水流眼泪浙江宁波年糕:“年年高”里含藏“甬港情”

  中新伽罗太华翻白眼流口水流眼泪社宁波1月30日电 题:浙江伽罗太华翻白眼流口水流眼泪宁波年糕:“年年高”里含藏“甬港情”

  作者   张斌

  每逢春节,香港包达三基金会理事长包鸿勋总盼望吃上一口家乡浙江宁波的煎年糕:切成小块的年糕放进锅里煎,厨房不一会儿就弥漫开香气。煎好的年糕外酥里嫩,咬一口,甜蜜的味道瞬间填满口腔。

  “每年到亲戚家拜年,我都盼着吃煎年糕,这是我记忆中的‘年味’。”包鸿勋近日接受连线采访时说。

  煎年糕、雪菜炒年糕、荠菜炒年糕、白蟹年糕……如包鸿勋所言,这些独具风味的特色菜品,早已深深烙印在宁波人的味觉记忆中。

热气腾腾的宁波炒年糕。(慈城镇 供图)

  近代以来,一大批宁波人走出宁波、重工兴商,逐渐形成了心系祖国、步履四海的商人群体,涌现出诸多爱国爱乡的宁波籍海内外人士。在此过程中,香港成为他们的集聚地。老一辈的生活习惯亦被带到香港,影响着各自的家庭成员。

  纵然大时代变化万千,自幼在香港长大的包鸿勋等年轻一代宁波籍海内外人士,依然牵挂着家乡味道——从传统宁波年糕在香港市场的畅销就能看出。

  “年糕年糕‘年年高’,今年更比去年好。宁波人过年就要吃年糕,走到哪里都不会变。”在“中国年糕之乡”宁波市江北区慈城镇,当地塔牌食品有限公司负责人胡金芳说。

  目前,香港市场九成以上的宁波年糕由这家企业供应。从去年10月至今,胡金芳的工厂累计生产供港年糕2000多桶,供不应求。

  从制作到储运,这些年糕都坚持传统的方式。早在1982年就参与供港年糕生产的胡金芳了解其中缘由:香港食客最中意的,就是传统宁波年糕那一口熟悉的味道。

  区别于苏式、广式等年糕,宁波年糕以“水磨”闻名。地道的宁波年糕要用当年新产的晚粳米制作,夹水带浆研磨大米,沥榨捣伽罗太华翻白眼流口水流眼泪舂,成品细腻柔嫩,食之溜滑上口,由此闻名。

  从前的宁波家庭,要在新年前手工制作几十斤至上百斤年糕,储藏在冷水里并不时换水,从腊月一直吃到来年。

  如今,保存时间更久、食用更便捷的真空包装年糕已成主流,但许多宁波人还是会用传统方式储存年糕,一些年轻人笑称这是“养年糕”。

  每年十月到来年立春前,胡金芳的工厂会用桶装注水储运年糕的方式供应香港市场。“冷水能保证年糕水分不流失,吃起来更软糯。不过必须要用‘冬水’,过了这段时间,随着天气转暖,水里的微生物一多就不行了。”

  慈城镇负责人介绍,这些年,当地的年糕年产量近一万吨,年销售额近一亿元人民币,远销欧洲、北美、东南亚等十几个国家和地区。

  结合市场的新变化,慈城年糕从业者近年来不断创新,推出“南瓜年糕”“紫薯年糕”“奶茶年糕”“冰淇淋年糕”等新产品。

  “不过供港年糕是‘例外’,还是越传统越受欢迎。”胡金芳说。(完)

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