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解惑“  中国XXXXXL196_may18_”-知识课堂

广海古隆糖  中国XXXXXL196_may18_糊:广东台山香甜暖胃的特色“乡味”

来源: 中国文化报
2024-12-09 18:53:27

最佳回答

“  中国XXXXXL196_may18_”广海古隆糖  中国XXXXXL196_may18_糊:广东台山香甜暖胃的特色“乡味”

    中国XXXXXL196_may18_中新  中国XXXXXL196_may18_社广州12月8日电 题:  中国XXXXXL196_may18_广海古隆糖糊:广东台山香甜暖胃的特色“乡味”

  作者 李晓春 郭军

  一进入秋冬季,前往广东台山市广海镇的人,很容易发现广海高速出口往渔人码头的主道边上,有标着“古隆糖糊”的小食档在摆摊,时不时还会有过往的人停车帮衬,或现场品尝,或打包带走。这道只有在秋冬季出现的广海乡味小吃,不仅香甜暖胃、略带嚼劲,而且很容易勾起海内外部分台山人的味觉记忆。

  古隆是广海镇一村名,而糖糊是当地一道富有乡味的特色小吃。需将浸泡好的大米,加水磨成米浆;烧柴火的大锅烧热后先放油,加水将片糖煮沸,倒入米浆,不停用长柄锅铲翻搅,煮的过程中米浆的水分不停蒸发,逐渐变成黏稠的糊状。在糖糊即将煮熟时,加入切好、炒熟的广式腊肉粒,搅拌至完全熟透即可。吃之前可撒上提前炒熟的花生,温热时吃的口感最佳。

11月30日下午2时许,广东台山市广海镇,一家卖糖糊的档口围满了等候购买的客人。李晓春 摄

  “在台山比较出名的有赤溪客家糖糊、广海糖糊、海宴糖糊,三者的煮法不尽相同,口感也有区别。前者2019年入选江门市第七批非物质文化遗产项目(传统技艺),而后两者虽没申报,但也是台山人耳熟能详且经常能吃到的特色小吃。”台山美食爱好者黄先生说,广海糖糊的口感与四九等镇春分当天特意煮的“糖糕”相近,后者有的还会加入新鲜采摘的“春花李”(石斑木)花瓣。

  “我会提前一晚将大米清洗和浸泡,第二天一早就将它磨成米浆,7时许开始煮,需用柴火煮上好几个小时,煮好用大保温缸装起,午饭后就到路边固定位置摆摊,这个习惯已坚持了十多年。”11月30日,古隆村的韦彩莲介绍说,煮糖糊最费力的翻搅环节(这过程又称为“擂”)由她和丈夫陈卫东共同完成。为了食客吃得放心,她几乎每隔一段时间就到当地菜市场选购一批新鲜猪肉来腌制晒成腊肉,加了肥瘦相间的腊肉粒煮出的糖糊,口感甜中混着腊味特有的咸香味,可以说是广海糖糊的灵魂所在。

11月30日上午,广东台山市广海镇古隆村,陈卫东、韦彩莲夫妇相互配合“擂”糖糊。李晓春 摄

  “煮糖糊,首选用台山本地出产的新马粘(米的品种),煮出的效果好,米香浓郁。而糖糊的配料花生碎,即需提前将带衣的花生炒熟,去衣碾碎后备用。如今有破壁机,去衣后直接倒进去搅碎即可。也可用炒熟的芝麻代替。”陈卫东表示,该村最高峰时有八家人煮糖糊卖,如今仍有四五家在坚持。为了提升客人的体验感,他率先配备大保温缸,确保打包时是温热的,还备有不同容积的打包盒,每盒售价分别为6元(人民币,下同)、8元、10元。

  “我每次经过广海,都特别留意路边卖糖糊的有没有摆摊。我喜欢到‘古隆老东糖糊’这家买,先趁热吃一小碗,再打包带走。外婆和我爸妈都非常喜欢吃广海糖糊,今天打包8盒。”长期在广州工作的台山市民伍先生说,秋冬季节吃到温热的广海糖糊是一种味蕾享受,能配上一壶普洱生茶或老树单枞就更惬意。

11月30日,广东台山市广海镇古隆村,即将煮熟的广海古隆糖糊,加入切好、炒熟的广式腊肉粒,口感层次更丰富。李晓春 摄

  “上个星期,表哥全家来探望我们,吃饭时一说起广海糖糊,大家马上就行动起来,第二天去超市买、在厨房找,硬是将粘米粉、糖、腊肉凑齐了。表哥亲自下厨,煮了一小锅糖糊给大家解馋。”现居美国俄勒冈州的台山乡亲谭先生表示,像他们这种远离家乡的游子,对家乡的美食甚是想念,一提起就魂牵梦绕。(完)

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